Author: saundralparker

Making an Open Wreath Butterfly Card

Thanks to my friends for sending such lovely cards my way.

I saw Sam Calcott make an open wreath card on Mixed Up Crafts and thought it was such a simple, but unforgettable card, that I needed to make one for my girlfriend’s birthday.

I started with a piece of cardstock that measures 5 x 7″ and laid a piece of patterned paper that is 4 3/4″ by 6 3/4″ and glued them together with Bearly Art Glue/ I put the papers in the scoreboard on the 7″ length and scored it at 3 1/2″

I used the second and fourth largest oval dies in the set I own, and cut the center out of the folded card base with the smaller of the two dies and made sure it cut through the front and back of our folded base. In the spots it didn’t cut through on the back layer, I used scissors to cut it.

I took the original two dies I chose so I’d have a thick frame and cut them out of the same cardstock color as my card base by lining them up so they are the same width apart from each other, then I die cut the cardstock. You’ll need to cut these twice as you need two ovals. I used the center scrap from one of the ovals for the sentiment. I used old rub on sentiments from Stampin’ Up and punched out the sentiment with an old Stampin Up Decorative Label punch. I put Bearly Art Glue on half of one of the oval frames I die cut, and adhered it to the front of the card base making sure you can’t see the card outline. I laid a thin strip of acetate half way down the oval and adhered it to both sides of the oval with tear tape, as wet glue won’t hold acetate. Then I added wet glue around the other oval and adhered it to the back of the card. I laid the punched sentiment onto the acetate using tear tape to adhere it in place. I punched another piece of the same pink cardstock to adhere to the back of the acetate and added butterflies to the back of the card as well.

I bought two packs of butterflies from Dollar Tree. Took the fronts of the butterflies off their backing and used some of the backings by themselves on the card and used the fronts to hide the paper on the oval. I used almost all of the butterflies I had.

I used a wax seal from to seal the envelope…I colored the flower with a silver marker and used a black envelope that matched the card. The wax seal matched the card and I made the color by combining two different wax colors to come up with one that worked perfectly…

DIY ArtBin Dies, Making a Shadow Box Card + Giveaway

I wanted to make shadow box cards with their dies on camera. I chose the bumblebee set to make my card. The card base is two sheets of 6 1/4″ wide by 5 1/2″ tall scoring both on the 6 1/4″ length at 1/2″ and 1″ on both ends. Then fold the 1″ fold up and the 1/2″ fold down. The two papers will face each other to be glued together. I used oval dies to cut the center out of the front of the black paper and then cut another piece of yellow cardstock to 5 1/4″ tall by 4″ wide and laid it behind the paper with the oval cut out of it, and used one sized smaller die and cut the center out of that layer then glued it into the back of the black paper. It creates a frame.

I used Honey Bee Bee-u-tiful sentiments stamp set link: for the sentiment

I cut the dies with Bristol paper and then used alcohol markers from Dick Blick as well as Touch 5 markers to color the bee images. I used Ranger Black Enamel Accents link: to cover the antennae and feet so they are shiny and a little dimensional. I used a Nuvo Glue Pen to adhere the stem to the daffodil she holds.

After gluing the bee together, I added another layer of wings using foam squares to attach the two sets together so it looks like she’s flapping them. I attached a couple thin strips of acetate with tear tape to the back of the bumblebee that are 6″ long and 1/4″ wide. I glued one behind her head and one behind the lower portion of her wings. Make sure the fold on the back of the card is at 90 degrees and add tear tape between the two score lines and lay the acetate with the bumblebee in the center of the card, and before gluing the top cardstock in place, make sure she’s centered. Then glue the top piece on (with the frame.)

I’m giving some of the dies away and all you need to do to enter is to write a comment below this video that says either, “I’d like to win the adult dies” or “I’d like to win the child dies.” You need to put the comment on the screen before May 8th at midnight and you need to be in the USA to win. I win contact the winners by responding to your comment and if I don’t hear back from you by May 11th, I’ll choose a new winner. The adult dies are the man with a beer and Santa drinking lemonade. The child dies are the astronaut and the alien and the boy firefighter with a dog. Thanks to the nice people at DIYArtBin for letting me do this giveaway.

Here are the products DIYArtBin sent me:

Teacup die set:

Gingerbread man set:

Bumblebee die set link:

Fireman die set:

Dinosaur die set:

Astronaut die set:

Man with beer die set:

Santa drinking lemonade set:

Fun Paper Purse, It’s Sturdy!

I saw this video on Posh Paper Lady’s YT channel, link: and love how cute and durable her purses are and wanted to give one a try.

You’ll need:

2 pieces of 12 x 8″ pieces of cardstock for the inside of the purse–I don’t recommend heavy weight card stock as it needs to bend in the middle.

2 pieces of 8 x 8″ patterned cardstock for the outside of the purse

1 piece 12 x 2 1/4″ patterned paper for the handle

1 piece of 8 x 6″ patterned paper for under the lid

1 piece of 5 3/4 x4″ pattern paper for the lid

Cardboard pieces (I used the back of a paper pad and not heavy weight cardboard)

2 pieces 5 1/8″ x 6: for surround

1 piece of 3 x 6 for surround

1 piece of 2 x 6 for lid

1 piece of 1 x 6 for lid


4 magnets that are 1/2″ by 1mm

4 bronze brads

a decoration for the front of the bag…I found metal embellishments from Tim Holtz Ideaology Line (butterflies) link: and Michael’s Recollections metal embellishments that are no longer available, but I did find some from Recollections that would also work…here’s the link:

You’ll also need:

Stick it or any double sided adhesive full sheets to back all of the cardboard

tear tape

hot glue

wet glue, I used Beacon 3 in 1 glue


both of the 12 x 8″ pieces….on the 12″ length, score at 3″ and 9″ and then on the 8″ length, score at 3″

2 1/4″ x 12″ strip, on the 2 1/4″ length score at 3/4″ and 1 1/2″ and on the 12″ length, score at 1 1/2″ and 3″ and 9″ and 10 1/2″ (or for the 9 and 10 1/2″ if you just flip the paper around from the first 1 1/2″ and 3″ scores to the other end, you can score again on the 1 1/2″ and 3″ marks.)

After scoring the two pieces of 12 x 8″ papers, take one and turning the paper so your single 3″ score is running horizontally near the bottom of the paper, you should have two squares on either end and a rectangle in the center at the bottom. You want to cut out both of the squares on the ends leaving only the rectangle at the bottom.

On the second 12 x 8″ paper, holding it the same as the first 12 x 8″ paper, with the single 3″ score near the bottom, cut the 3″ score line from the top of the squares on either end, and then cut a small wedge out of the squares both top and bottom. You’ll have a long rectangle above the wedge you cut out, and you’ll want to cut the long rectangle in half so it’s half as wide..don’t cut away the length, only the width. Do this to both ends.

My cardstock had a white core, so I took a finger dauber with brown ink to cover up every edge that showed white. I recommend you do this to your purse if you have a white core in your paper.

To make the inside of the purse: Fold and burnish the scores on the two 12 x 8″ papers. Then lay the papers so the places you made your cuts face each other and the one with only a rectangle left behind, put glue on the rectangle and lay the other piece directly on top of it with the rectangles perfectly lined up so the score lines are straight, then fold in the little center notched flap and the longer one you cut in half and put glue behind them, stand the long cut piece up, lay the center flap onto the back of it, and then pull the other paper’s flap up, and glue it to the back, making sure they are all at 90 degree angles and the bottoms are all straight. If there’s a little extra paper at the top when you’re done, you can trim that off. Do the same to the other side to create a box, and make sure you rub the inside with a bone folder or ruler to make sure all papers are well adhered.

To make the surround: take the two pieces of 5 1/8 x 6″ and 3 x 6″ cardboard and 2 pieces of patterned cardstock that are 8 x 8…lay the two pieces of cardstock so they overlap just a little, put tear tape on the end, and attach them. NOTE: If your papers’ pattern has a direction, make the papers so the patterns face away from each other as when you wrap them around the purse, then they’ll both face the right direction.) Lay the two attached papers with the pattern you want (if it’s double sided cardstock) face down, and lay one piece of 5 1/8″ x 6″ cardboard about an inch from one end and leaving a 1/8″ gap, lay the 3 x 6″ cardboard and leaving another 1/8″ gap, lay the other 5 1/8″ x 6″ cardboard. You should have lined all of them with double sided adhesive and they should now be attached to the cardstock. Then cut a notch out of the four corners of the cardstock, so that when you wrap the paper around the cardboard, the corners aren’t bulky. Put tear tape on the edges of the cardstock and remove the backing. I score around the cardboard so the paper folds onto it easier, and then I start folding the paper toward the cardboard…then fold it onto the cardboard as tightly as possible, then use the bone folder to make sure all edges are well adhered. Bring the inside box you made back, add tear tape to the center piece of cardboard covered with paper, and lay the box on top of it, making sure it is centered from side to side. Then add wet glue to the inside of the cardboard sides pull them up so they are laid onto the inside box, and then rub the inside of the box to make sure the sides are well adhered to the glue.


Take the pieces of cardstock you have left and the two pieces of cardboard left.

Lay the 8″ x 6″ piece of cardstock pattern side you’ll be using facing down. Lay it so the

8″ side is facing you and put your 2″ x 6″ cardboard (already lined with double sided adhesive) so the adhesive faces down, about 1″ from the bottom of the cardstock, then with about a 1/8″ gap, lay the 1″ x 6″ cardboard down behind the first piece. Then cut notches out of the cardstock corners on the corners in front of the 2 x 6″ cardboard piece, put tear tape on the front and both sides of the cardboard pieces, all the way to the end of the cardstock. Then score around the cardboard and begin the process of making the paper wrap up and around the three sides of the cardboard, leaving the back side untouched. Once all are adhered, rub them with your bone folder to ensure they’re well adhered.

Before you do anything else, you need to attach the handle. Take the 12 x 2 1/4″ piece of cardstock and fold the two long sides into the middle and glue them both down, so you have one 3/4″ wide, 12″ long strip. Once it’s glued together, start rubbing your hand over it to start it to curl on itself. Or rub it on the edge of the desk to start it curling. Then on the 1 1/2″ score on either end, fold them under and the 3″ score on either end, the paper between these two scores is your curled handle. You will want to add two brads to both ends of the handle between the 1 1/2″ and 3″ scores. I used a Crop A Dile Big Bite to punch holes. The brads are decorational and not used to hold anything down. You’ll need your hot glue gun to adhere the handle. Take one end of the handle on the 1 x 6″ cardboard strip on the lid and centering the handle on the 1″ cardboard, wrap the paper under the cardboard strip all the way to the first 1 1/2″ score and hot glue this under the cardboard, then hot glue from the 1 1/2″ score to the 3″ score onto the top of the 1″ cardboard piece and do the same on the other end of the handle onto the other end of the 1″ cardboard piece on the lid.

Next, take the 5 3/4″ x 4″ piece of cardstock leftover and position it over the two pieces of cardboard that are exposed and glue it in place, making sure to get this as flat as possible over the handle that’s now under the lid..

The back part of the 8 x 6″ cardstock should not have any cardboard or additional paper backing it at this point…You’ll want to add tear tape to this section as this is what will attach the lid to the back of your purse. Pull the sides of the box in, so the purse looks pinched, then lay the lid over it and lining up so everything is straight, attach the back of the lid to the back of the purse and rub with your bone folder to make sure it’s adhered well.

To decorate the purse, hot glue whatever embellishment to the front center of the purse, and holding the lid where you want it, lay your magnets under the lid about 1″ from the left and right edges of the lid and glue dot them in place. Then take the other half of both magnets and adhere them to their magnet mate, and add a glue dot to the back of them, then close the lid and rub it so the glue dots hold the magnets to the purse. I wanted to hide the magnets, but forgot to put them under the cardboard when I first laid the cardboard onto the cardstock. If you do this, your magnets will probably still show under the lid, as it might be really hard to figure out where they go, in relation to the magnets on the body of the purse. I’d love it if someone could show me an easy way to do this..

Matte Laminating Pouch,, Plant Wrapper, Thinking Outside the Box

I bought my girlfriend a hyancinth and hated the wrapper for the plant and decided I could make a better one.

I laminated a napkin from the Christmas Tree Store in a matte laminating pouch link:

Separate the napkin layers so you only have the top layer and put one napkin face down in the laminating pouch and place two pieces of photocopier paper on top of the napkin and then lay another napkin face up then close the laminating pouch. If the first time you run this through the laminator doesn’t do a good job of laminating the napkins, run it through a second time. Then cut the napkins out of the laminating pouch.

I cut a circle with and EK Success Circle Cutter that was 7″ across for under the bottom of the pot, then ran tear tape around the outside edge of the circle. I set the pot in the middle of the circle and then cut snips from the outside of the circle to the bottom of the pot about an inch apart so I could easily wrap the bottom of the pot.

I measured the plant from the bottom to the top and cut a strip that height (4″) to wrap around the plant. I added tear tape to the back of the laminated napkin and then wrapped it around about 1/3 of the plant and cut the laminated napkin, then wrapped the leftover laminated napkin onto the next 1/3 and then took the second napkin and finished wrapping it.

I found a ribbon that looked nice with the napkin, and added tear tape to the top rim of the plant and laid the ribbon onto the tear tape and tied it in a bow, and called it done.

To straighten ribbon, I use a hair straightener that I bought at a garage sale specifically for straightening ribbon.

Making a 5 Drawer Storage Cabinet to Hold 150 Prismacolor Pencils

I needed storage for my Prismacolor pencil set of 150, and made my own.

To begin, you’ll need:

For the bottom and top of our storage, you’ll need two, 9 x 9″ pieces of 2mm cardboard. I bought mine from Amazon and here’s the link. (I’m not an affiliate of Amazon and always recommend you price shop before buying the products used in my videos.)

I bought the paper I used from Joanns in their loose paper dept. They are by American Crafts, the flowers are #320394 and the blue leaf paper is #359981. I bought 20 pieces. 16 of the floral and 4 of the blue. Here’s a link to the blue leaf paper the floral pattern is on clearance, so you might be able to find it in your local store.

To cover your 9 x 9 cardboard, use scrapbook paper that is 11 x 11″ and glue it to the cardboard with Beacons 3 in 1 Glue or Colall Glue if you’re in Europe link: Cut the corners of paper out in a fan shape so there’s not a lot of bulk on the corners. To ensure your paper doesn’t crack when you wrap it around the cardboard, take a score tool, or the back of a butter knife and score around the edges of the cardboard on your paper, then fold it onto the cardboard, making sure you have enough glue to hold it in place. You’ll need to cover the underside of the bottom cardboard piece, and can use 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ scrap of paper since no one will be looking under the box.

You will need four Shelves:

Four pieces of 7 9/16 wide x 7 5/8″ tall cardboard.

Make16 hinges 1 1/2″ tall x 7 5/8″ wide cardstock scored on the 1 1 2/” side at 3/4″.

I covered the four shelves with blue cardstock I had on hand that was 9 x 9″. You’ll cover your shelves with cardstock (you don’t need to cover the bottom as no one will see it) and the paper is large enough to wrap around the edges like you did with the bottom and top of the container. Make sure the paper is well adhered to the cardboard.

8 more cardstock hinges that are 1 1/2″ by 7 9/16″ to adhere to the back of your shelves. I would glue half of this hinge down first by lining up the score line with the back top edge of the shelf, then glue down both side hinges by lining up the scores with the side you’re adhering the hinge to. You’ll glue a hinge on the top side of the shelves and you’ll also glue a hinge to each side on the bottom and top, so you have a flap above the box on the two sides and the back, as well as a hinge under the shelves on both sides.

I used Distress Ink in Chipped Sapphire to ink the front of the shelf so the blue paper matches the drawers. I’m not sure why I said you should ink the back, as you’ll never see it.

I forgot to cover the underside of the drawers in the first video, so took a piece of the same blue cardstock that’s 7 1/4″ x 7 1/4″ we’re using for hinges and shelves to cover the bottom of each drawer.

To make the sides of my cabinet, use two pieces of cardboard that are 7 5/8″ x 8 5/8″ tall and cover them with 9 x 10″ Park Lane Floral Watercolor paper from Joanns, link:, and a piece of the same blue cardstock we used to line the shelves with that are 7 x 8″.

You’ll need a piece of cardboard for the back of the cabinet that is 7 5/8 x 8 5/8″ tall covered with the same cardstock, inside and out.

Attach knobs to the fronts of the drawers. Link: Make a template out of cardboard that is half the height of the drawer with a mark where you’d like your knobs to be, and lay the template on the drawer, make marks on the drawer directly above the mark on the template, then drill holes where the marks are on your drawer. I had to buy different screws for the knobs I bought, as the screws that came with the knobs were too long and wouldn’t have held the knobs in place.

Place a drawer centered on the bottom of the cabinet and made a mark with a pen where the front, back and sides of the drawer would be, then remove the drawer from the bottom of the cabinet.. You’ll need six hinges of blue cardstock. Two for the back that’s 7 5/8″ by 1 1/2″ scored on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″ and four for the sides that are 7 9/16″ by 1 1/2″, scored on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″. I’ll tell you what to do with the other three hinges when you’ve got your drawers in place. Place the back hinge so the fold of the hinge lays on the mark you made toward the back of the cardboard, gluing only one half of the hinge to the cardboard. Then glue the two side hinges so the front of the hinge is on the mark we made on the front and the length of the hinge is on the mark you made on the side of the cardboard, again only gluing half of the hinge in place.

Once the hinges are well adhered, glue the sides and back to the hinges, and glue two hinges with the same Floral Watercolor cardstock that are 8 5/8″ by 3″, scored on the 3″ length at 1 1/2″ to the back outside corners to adhere the sides to the back of the cabinet. Make two blue hinges 8 5/8″ x 3″ and glue to the inside of the back corners to adhere the sides to the back.

Using the extra three blue hinges made for the back and sides of the shelves, glue them to the very top of the sides and back of the cabinet with the fold laying flat with the top of the back and sides of the cabinet.

After all of your drawers are in place, you’ll glue the top of the cabinet to these flaps making sure it is centered over the cabinet. Rub the flaps inside the box to ensure they are well adhered..

You should number your drawers on their undersides, 1 through 5, so when you glue the drawer with its shelf inside the box, you always put that drawer back inside the slot you created for it with the shelf laying on it , as each slot might be a little different from another, and that drawer should work perfectly in the slot you created for it.

Once the sides and back of the cabinet are well adhered to each other and the bottom of the cabinet, place one drawer inside with a shelf laying flat on top of it with glue adhered to all of the flaps on the shelf. Make sure the shelf is flat on the top of the drawer or you’ll have a real problem. Do the same with other three drawers making sure this shelf is flat on the drawer will make your project simple, if the shelf isn’t flat on the drawer, the box won’t fit together in the end.

If you make one of these cabinets, I recommend that you only use my measurements for the cabinet as a guideline, because your drawers might be a little bigger or smaller than mine, and if they are, my measurements won’t work. Here’s how you can adjust the size of the sides and backs to fit your drawers. Lay each drawer with it’s shelf laying on it on top of the other drawers. Measure how tall they will be and how long they are front to back. Once you know the measurement for how tall it will be, write down that measurement, and that’s the height of the sides and back of the cabinet. To determine the width of your sides, measure the drawers from front to back and add 1/16th of an inch to your measurement, to ensure the drawers will be able to close all the way. Measure the shelves across the front and that is the width of the back of your cabinet.

Making Drawers for Prismacolor Pencils (Dresser in Next Video)

I wanted to make a five drawer storage unit for my Prismacolor pencils and thought I’d show you how I made it. This is the first video and the second video will show making the cabinet to hold the drawers.

I made five drawers and in this video, I’ll show you how to make one and then you’ll repeat this process four more times.


You’ll need a medium weight cardboard/chipboard. I bought mine on Amazon and here’s the link to it. I do recommend you price shop when buying anything I provide a link for, as I want you to pay the lowest price possible.

You’ll need: Beacon 3 in 1 Glue or Colall Glue works best to make this project.

Cardboard needs to be 2 mm thick to work with the measurements I’ll be using.

You’ll need eight hinges that are 1 1/2″ tall x 2″ wide score on the 2″ length at 1″ made out of a lighter weight cardstock. Don’t use heavy weight cardstock as it won’t work well...

Two pieces of chipboard/cardboard that are 1 1/2″ tall by 7 1/4″ long for the sides

Two pieces of 2″ x 7 1/4″ cardstock scored at 1″ on the 2″ length, and you wrap one over the top of your side pieces and glue it in place as this makes the box more sturdy.

Two pieces of chipboard/cardboard that are 1 1/2″ tall by 7 3/8″ long for the front and back

Two pieces of cardstock that are 2″ tall by 7 3/8″ long for the front and back scored on the 2″ length at 1″. You’ll wrap one piece over the top of the front and back pieces

Putting the drawer together:

Start with the back piece and one side piece that already have their cardstock glued on the top. You’ll put the side piece so it’s butting onto the back piece at one end, then take one of your hinges that are 1 1/2″ x 2″ and glue it behind the back and side corner and another hinge that you’ll glue to the front of the side and back piece of cardboard to hold them in place. Take the other side piece and glue it to the other end of the back piece, making sure it’s glued onto the back piece, (and not beside it) then put a hinge behind and in front of the intersection of the side and back pieces to hold them together.

Eight pieces of cardstock that are 1 1/2″ tall by 7 1/4″ .scored on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″. You’ll need three pieces initially, and you’ll only put glue one one side of the score (so you’re gluing the entire length 7 1/4″ but only on 3/4″.) Take the first piece and glue it on the bottom back of your back piece, then glue one to the back of each of your sides so the extra flap lays inside the box you’re making. Once all three are in place, take your bottom that is 7 1/4″ x 7 1/4″ and glue it onto all of the flaps. It should fit perfectly. Take the next three of the 7 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ cardstock pieces and glue them inside the box on the two sides and the back. Take another of these cardstock pieces and glue it inside the front of the box lining the center up with the edge of the box, so our front has something to be glued to. Take your front cardboard piece that is 2″ x 7 3/8″ (with cardstock wrapped around the top) and glue it to the flap you just put in and making sure the two side cardboard pieces are glued to the ends of the front piece. Add two of your 2″ x 1 1/2″ hinges to the ends on the inside of the box and on the outside of the box. Add one of the 7 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ cardstock pieces under the front of the box glued to the bottom.

I used Chipped Sapphire Distress Ink that matched the decorated paper I used and went around all of the edges, top, bottom, sides, so the box matches the cardstock I cover it with.

I used PVA Glue link: and a silicone tool I bought at the Dollar Tree in the makeup aisle to glue down the decorated cardstock. I cut decorated paper to 7 1/8 x 7 1/8″ to line the inside of the box.

I added a strip of cardboard for the center of the box that’s 7 3/8 x 1 3/8″ wrapped with matching cardstock. I lined the sides of the inside of the box that are 7 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ tall glued on each side and did the same to the outside of the box. I hot glued the center cardboard strip into the center of the box from front to back. If it bows the box, cut a small strip off before gluing it in place. For the outside of the box, it was a lot easier to use 1 1/2″ x 12″ long strips that I PVA glued and wrapped around the box. You want the pattern to be perfect on the front of the box, so make sure it doesn’t have a seam on the front.

GBFKE com Haul and Giveaway

Thanks to the nice people at for sending me these products.

To enter the drawing, you must live in the USA. In the comments below the video please write, “I’d like to win the peacock.” I’ll choose a winner on April 15th and will contact the winner for their address. If I don’t hear back from the winner by midnight of April 18th, I’ll pick a new winner. Winning comment is chosen at random.


Products Shown:

Butterfly lamp:

Flower diamond painting:

Christmas Truck diamond painting: This painting is not currently available, but here’s a painting that is very similar.

Peacock Diamond Painting:

Puppy Diamond Painting:

Gnome Christmas Diamond Painting:

Making a 12×12 Gift Bag

I’ve been watching Sam Calcott on Mixed Up Craft making gift bags. I really liked the size of this bag, and hope you do too. Here’s the link to the video Sam made:

You’ll need:

Two pieces of 12 x 12 scrapbook paper (front and back)

two pieces 8 x 12″ scrapbook paper (sides)

one piece 8 x 12″ scrapbook paper (bottom)

two pieces of 6 x 2″ wide cardstock (hinges to hold the bag together)

decorations for bag–I used a cut out from one of the paper pads, plus three tassels I made in a previous video

wet glue: I used Brutus Monroe’s wet glue that he no longer sells and I used tear tape.


6 x 2″ pieces…score both on the 2″ length at 1″

bottom 8 x 12″ piece–score on the 8″ length at 1″ and 7″ sides

8 x 12″ pieces–score on 8″ length at 1″ and 7″ and on the 12″ length, score at 3″ (this needs to be at the bottom of the bag, so make sure your pattern faces up, away from the 3″ score) then put the paper back to 8″ length and score at 4″ down to the 3″ line near the bottom of the paper. Score both papers the same. Put the score board aside and on the 8″ length, go to the 4″ score, where it intersects with the 3″ score at the bottom..Using a ruler and scoring tool, put the ruler from the 4″ and score diagonally to the 1″ score on the left and then to the same from the 4″ center score to the 7″ score on the right.

Fold all of the score lines on all papers.

Note: If your paper tends to crack, put Scotch tape (cello tape) on those score lines that could crack on the inside of the bag..

12 x 12″ back of bag—score directional patterned paper with the top of the pattern facing to the right side of the score board…score at 3″ if you want to flatten the bag…if you don’t want to flatten your bag, you don’t need to do this score.

Fiskars bone folder is no longer made, but I found them on ebay:

To put the bag together: Start with the bottom that is 8 x 12″ (Add tear tape to the outside of the 1″ and 7″ scores) and the two 6 x 2″ hinges. Glue the hinges with the center fold lined up on the short edges of the bottom. I used tear tape and Brutus Monroe’s wet glue on one side of a hinge and folded the hinge closed with the open part facing the inside of the bag. (You want it to stand up with the other flap lined up with the edge of the bottom of the bag.) Put tear tape on the other flap of the hinges, but don’t take the backing off. Lay the other hinge on the other end of the bottom of the bag so you have four 1″ flaps sticking up (the other two are the scores you made to the bottom of the bag.) Take the backing off the tear tape on the long sides of the bottom and add wet glue. Try to flatten the 1″ score line and line up the bottom edge of the front (the one without a score) of the bag and make sure the 12 x 12″ paper is lined up with the bottom edge of the bag. Do the same on the other side with the back of the bag, making sure the 3″ score line is near the bottom of the bag. Take one side of the bag and take the backing off the tear tape on the bottom side 1″ strip of the bag (the side is the short 8″ length).. Add wet glue then lay the bottom of one side onto the bottom on it’s 1″ strip and take the backing off the 1″ side flap ( tear tape,) add wet glue, then holding the bag as tall as possible, pull the front and side up as straight as possible and adhere the top of the flap together then work your way down, making sure it’s well adhered. Using your bone folder, rub inside the bag on all of the adhered flaps, to ensure it stays connected. Then do the same to the other side of the bag, adhering the side to the front. Then adhere the back to the sides using the same techniques as you did on the front panel.

I took a ATG card from the paper pad and rounded the corners with my Kadomaru Pro corner rounder link:

For handles, make a pencil mark from the right and left sides 4″ and 1″ from the top, then poke a hole in these spots all the way through to the other side with a pokey tool or by using a Crop a dile Big bite, link: and put the setting on the top to 3/8″ to punch the holes through both sides on the marks I made. You’ll need four eyelets, and put the Big Bite inside the bag, and move the lever so it does eyelets and crunch the eyelets in place. I used a silver ribbon and ran it through a hair straightener to get all kinks out and then cut a length that’s 17″ long and ran it from inside the bag to outside and made a big knot inside the bag to hold it in place then push the ribbon inside the other hole on the same side and knot. Do the same on the other side. Add tassels and the ATG card onto silver ribbon, then tie them onto the bag.

Here’s a photo of the bag I made.

How to Use Dies Without Cutting Them Apart: An Easter Card

I wanted to use a bunch of dies that came attached together, but didn’t want to cut them apart.

I used white cardstock so I could color the pieces I wanted. I made another card where I colored the bunny grey, and on this card, left the rabbit grey, but colored his ears, nose, and glass inserts.

I was sent these dies from a friend who didn’t know where they were made. I found them on Amazon link: and Aliexpress link:

I die cut the entire set of dies and then used pink markers to color the ears and nose. I die cut an additional set of eyeglasses out of blue glitter cardstock, then removed the heart centers and used the white original set of hearts and colored them black, then used a black Wink of Stella style pen link: to color the hearts so they are sparkly.

I used a card base that is 5 1/2″ tall by 8 1/2″ wide, scored on the 8 1/2″ length at 4 1/4″ to make an A2 sized card. I took a piece of light blue cardstock that was 4 1/4″ wide and 3″ tall and ran it through my Vagabond II link: inside a Brutus Monroe embossing folder called Petal Lace link: Then I used Hero Arts Unicorn White pigment ink link: and lightly rubbed the ink pad flat across the blue paper to create a white embossed design on blue paper. I had leftover strips of floral scrap paper that I cut to 2″ tall x 4 1/4″ wide and glued this to the bottom of the front of the card base. I used an Avery Glue Stick to adhere the blue embossed paper above the floral scrap. Then I took a piece of retired Stampin’ Up pleated Blushing Bride ribbon link: and attached it to the top of the floral scrap on the blue paper with tear tape, then using Glue Dots, adhered the rabbit’s paws on the ribbon. I glued the rabbit head down before attaching the paws, as I wanted the paws to be on either side of the head (but below it on the ribbon)..Then I glued the nose, glasses and pinks of the ears to the rabbit head. I had a die that cuts “Happy Easter” and used a dark burgundy scrap of cardstock to cut it out and then adhered it to the top of the card on an angle using Tonic Precision Glue Pen link:

How to Make Paper Tassels

I wanted to make paper tassels with minimal tools and made two versions..

Version One: Fringe Scissors (Sorry, I call them grass making scissors)

Uses fringe making scissors link: Take a strip of 7″ long x 2 1/2″ wide cardstock that is no thicker than 90 lb cardstock. Using the scissors cut to about 1/2″ from the top of the 2 1/2″ width and cut the entire length of cardstock. Then roll the cardstock around a dowel or skewer to start the small center of the tassel, then continue wrapping the cardstock around the dowel/skewer link: and make sure the paper is straight across the top. I put my finger over the top to ensure the paper is flat on top. I also add tear tape on the inside top 1/2″ of paper so it stays adhered as you roll it. Put tear tape or glue on the end once you’ve wrapped all of the paper, to make sure it stays put. Then take tear tape and wrap it around the uncut top section of the tassel, centering it on the uncut section. Take the backing off the tear tape and run a strip of ribbon around the top of the tassel. Then take a 5″ strip of the same ribbon and snip the ends in a “v” shape and put wet glue (I used Brutus Monroe glue that they no longer sell in the bottle I used) into the center hole of the tassel, then with a sharp object like a pokey tool or scissors, push the end of the ribbon into the hole and push it in until you’re sure it’s really in there, then do the same to the other end, making sure it’s in the hole, then add more wet glue in the hole and around the hole so the tassel stays well adhered, as does the ribbon. I recommend that you fluff the bottoms (pull them apart) so they look more realistic.

Version Two: Normal Scissors

Using normal scissors, I used Tim Holtz 5″ snips link: and cut small strips maybe 1/16″ apart on 7″ long by 2 1/2″ tall cardstock that is lighter weight. Make 2″ snips the entire length of the paper. I wrapped the paper around a skewer and then laid a piece of tear on the top 1/2″ length that’s not cut, and held the paper tightly as I wrap it around until I’ve wrapped the entire length of 7″ paper. Once you finish wrapping the paper, put tear tape under the end to hold the tassel in place. Then take a piece of 1/4″ wide tear tape and wrap it around the outside of the tassel centering it on the top section, then take the backing off, and run a ribbon around the top section of the tassel. Then take a 5″ strip of the same ribbon and snip the ends in a “v” shape and put wet glue into the center hole of the tassel, then with a sharp object like a pokey tool or scissors, push the end of the ribbon into the hole and push it in until you’re sure it’s really in there, then do the same to the other end, making sure it’s in the hole, then add more wet glue in the hole and around the hole so the tassel stays well adhered, as does the ribbon. I also recommend that you fluff the bottoms (pull them carefully apart) so it looks more realistic.