Tombow Mono Adhesive–this glue stays sticky after it’s dry, so you can put this glue on a project, let it dry and then adhere something to it. This is the glue of choice for the Stampin’ Up ladies, and it does a great job…but, you don’t get a lot in the bottle. The tip doesn’t clog and there are two tip options for people who prefer using the bigger tip. My friend Sherry made me a glue holder, by taking a votive cup from the Dollar Tree and adding a large dollop of hot glue in the bottom and then placing the cap of this glue into the hot glue before it set. You can use either this glue or the Tombow Mono Aqua Adhesive in her glue holder because their lids, although two different colors, are exactly the same size. Link: https://www.joann.com/tombow-mono-multi-liquid-glue/1835644.html
Tombow Mono Aqua Adhesive–this is the sister to the Mono Adhesive, but it doesn’t stays sticky after it’s dry. I prefer this to the Mono, as it’s a bigger bottle. It dries clear and works well and the fine tip applicator doesn’t clog (because it’s not an ultra fine tip.) There are two tip options for people who prefer using the bigger tip. Link: https://www.joann.com/tombow-169-oz-mono-aqua-liquid-glue/1835636.html
Beacon’s 3 in 1 Glue– For 3D projects, it adds stability, and makes projects sturdy, more hard. It does have a very distinctive smell and I recommend you have good ventilation when you use it. Sam Calcott from Mixed Up Craft recommends Colall Glue that’s very similar to Beacon. link: https://www.joann.com/3in1-8-oz-bottle/11725231.html
But I haven’t had a lot to talk about for so long, and I finally have something to say. Rich and I are getting a puppy. We’re getting another English Retriever like Honey. If I haven’t said this on YouTube, Honey has a spot of cancer on her nose. The oncologist gave her a year with no treatment and 23 months with treatment. I’m not sure about you, but putting a dog through radiation sounds inhumane, and we chose not to proceed with treatment. We gave Honey a high dose of CBD oil for the first two months after we got the diagnosis and her nose bump is gone. The oncologist said that cancer takes the path of least resistance, meaning it shouldn’t go into her nose, but instead, should continue to expand upward until it gets to the point that the skin can’t stretch enough and breaks. The visual the vet oncologist’s words inspired, did not make us happy. I don’t know if the CBD oil helped or if the cancer found another way to grow, but so far, (and it’s been probably 3-4 months) we don’t see any signs of it getting worse. With that being said, the reason we’re getting a puppy, is we don’t want either of our dogs to be an “only child.”
Dogs like to form a pack, so if you have two dogs, they are their own pack. When one of those dogs leaves the pack, the other dog is lost without it’s other pack member, and often will die of heart break. If you don’t like dogs, you probably don’t believe this, but I’ve seen it myself. Our dogs have grieved deeply for their lost counterparts, and if they hadn’t had a younger dog to look out for, I don’t think our dogs would have survived. We’ve woken in the night to dogs howling like their hearts have broken and Rich and I both bursting into tears, hearing our dog in so much pain.
We don’t know how long Honey truly has, but we’ll be grateful for the time we have with her. Bella is 11, so we may lose her before Honey, and as much as you plan for every contingency, losing both dogs in the next couple of years, is a real possibility. I guess we’ll cross that bridge when we have to.
We’re also going on vacation next week for 9 days. Driving through New York to Vermont, and then after 3-4 days there, onto York, Maine. We have a bucket list that we want to visit all 50 states, and even though Vermont is truly only one state away from us, we’ve never been there. Once we check Vermont off our list, we only have North and South Dakota, Montana, Idaho and Alaska to go. It would be great if we could check the first four off in one trip, but I doubt that would be easy to accomplish. Alaska, we’ll cruise there once cruising is safe again, and then we’ll be done. It’s been fun seeing the whole country, and we made sure we didn’t count things like landing in an airport in a state…we truly had to visit that state. We’ve really enjoyed so many states and look forward to seeing the rest. Our biggest regret is not seeing the Grand Canyon, so we’ll probably make another trip there at some point.
As for crafting, I have been trying to organize my craft room and it’s been months of moving things around and not having anywhere to walk….It’s been so frustrating, and I can’t wait until I can finally look around and not be embarrassed by the mess. I’ve had to give up diamond painting for a while, as my elbows don’t want to play, and repetitive motions that diamond paintings require, make my elbows swell and ache. Such is the life of a crafty diva.
The nice people at everydayecrafts.com sent me some dies and diamond art, and unfortunately their dies wouldn’t release the paper, no matter what I tried, so I won’t be sharing those with you. The diamond art, however, was a lot of fun and I recommend it highly. If you have a family member or friend who loves Nightmare Before Christmas, this is a great set for beginners or experienced diamond painting enthusiasts. You can use them as key chains (the way they’re intended, or you could only add diamonds to one side and turn them into refrigerator magnets, or use them as gift tags, or on cards.
I have been getting a monthly kit from Papercraft Society and I love their storage system, and wanted to make similar binders for my stamps, dies and ephemera.
You will need 3 pieces of 12 x 12 paper solid core, in the color of your choice. I think I’ll make another in an upcoming video that I’ll line with chipboard/cardboard, to make it more sturdy. This one is fine, but maybe not as sturdy as I had hoped.
The decorated papers I used are from Joann’s, their brand, Park Lane Flower Garden. link: https://tinyurl.com/43wnmzd9 If you’re shopping right now, this paper is 1/2 off and is a large pad, 180 sheets, and would work great if you make your own envelopes, since it’s a very light weight paper.
Cut your three pieces of 12 x 12″ papers, cut two of the pieces down to 9 x 12″ and the last down to 6 x 9″. Take the two pieces that are 9 x 12″ and on the 9″ length, put tear tape on the right edge covering the last 1/2″, doing the same to the second 9 x 12″ piece on the 9″ length. Then take the tear tape backing off and add a little wet glue so when you try to lay the papers on top of each other, if you make a mistake, you will be able to move the papers without destroying them. Add the last 6×9″ piece to the right end, so you have one very long piece.
Scoring: With all three pieces now connected together, score at 6 3/4 and 7″ and then fold them up so you can put the second score (the 7″ one) on the far left of the score board, and score again at 6 3/4″ and 7 1/8″, then fold both of these scores up, and putting the 7 1/8″ score on the far left of the score board, score at 6 3/4 and 7 1/4″. Make sure all of your scores are well scored and fold them so you’ve created what looks like a binder. Set this aside for a second.
For pockets you’ll need 3 pieces of 8 1/2″ x 11″ cardstock…I used matching Stampin’ Up cardstock and cut all three pieces to 7 3/4 x 10″.
Then score all of them on the 10″ length on the very bottom, score at 1 1/4″ and 1 1/2″. On the 7 3/4″ length, score at 1 1/4 and 1 1/2″.
Go back to the long length of paper we set aside, and lay a plate or something oval onto the outside flap that should be on top. Trace the plate or oval piece you’ve laid onto it and cut it out. This will give you a nice finished look for your binder. Set the binder aside and let’s work on the pockets.
Fold the scores to create the pocket, then cut out the boxes in the corner where the two sets of score lines cross each other. Open the paper back up so it’s flat and cut a line from the top (the top only has scores on one side) to the bottom edge, furthest from where the scores meet each other, on a diagonal. Make the cuts so they don’t cut into any score lines. Fold all scores in and you will see paper showing at the top and bottom that you won’t want to see, so cut that paper off on an angle. Do this to all three of these.
Back to the binder, Decorating: You need 3 pieces of 12 x 12 cut to 8 3/4 x 12″. I took the Flower Garden papers that are super lightweight and used tear tape on them to line the outside of the binder. I laid it on the innermost fold first (you could start with the area you cut on a plate first too.) and work your way to the other end. The piece that covered the outer flap, I tear taped down and then flipped everything over and cut it from behind so the decorative paper covers to the edge of the flap. I used self adhesive Velcro from the Dollar Tree and laid it about 1″ from the edge and 4 1/2″ from the bottom of the outer flap.
I found some papers in the Flower Garden pack that had a floral pattern that ran diagonally on the paper, and decided to layer these onto my pockets, I laid the paper onto my pocket and decided where I wanted the pattern to lie, and cut off the rest. I used the first floral paper as a template and laid it on the other pieces so they were all cut the same, then adhered them to the fronts of my pockets. The layered paper is 8 1/4″ tall x 6″ wide if you want to measure paper to cut on a diagonal
At 24:30, I lay green paper into the binder. There’s a seam in the middle of the paper that might create a problem when you try to fill the pocket, so I took leftover green paper and cut it to the same length, but the width is from the score on the left, to the seam in the center (and that might be different for yours than for mine.) I tear taped the paper down and then glued the pocket right to the score lines, but not over them and lined up with the bottom edge of the binder.
I cut a big design out of one of the paper sheets in my pad and glued it to the front of the binder.
I ran an empty laminating pouch through my laminator to get a thick acetate consistency, but you could also use a medium to heavy weight regular acetate for this technique.
I used pink cardstock to cut out the roses die and a lighter green cardstock to cut out the leaf die, then using tear tape or redline tape, attach the die to the acetate. If you use a wet glue, it won’t hold the acetate, so make sure you use tape of some kind to adhere the two together. Then once the two are adhered, take whatever alcohol markers you like, and color the back of the images. I used Arttx alcohol markers. Use darker colors, or they won’t show up and use the larger nib so you don’t get a liney, splotchy, smeary look.
Once the ink was dry, I attached the pink roses to a piece of gold glitter cardstock and then adhered that to a 4 1/4″ x 5 1/2″ white cardstock, and used Dusty Concord Distress Oxide ink around the edges of the white cardstock, so it enhanced the pink front.
For the leaves, I colored them a few shades of green, then realized I preferred one color of green, and went back over it, using the darker green. If you make a mistake, you can wipe it off with a cloth or if it’s dry, you can use a cloth or Q-tip and rubbing alcohol to wipe off the acetate. I used a 5 x 7: card base in the same green and glued the image directly to the card base, then added a “hi” sentiment die cut to the front in black cardstock.
To make a shirt and tie bag, use a bag that is longer and thinner, like a lunch bag. Fill the bag with the gift before making the shirt.…and leave about 2 1/2″ from the top empty, so you can fold it down.
Once the bag is filled, fold the top over with about a 1″ fold, and then fold it again so you have two folds. Then put some glue under your folds so they stay in place. Then cut under the fold on either side about 1/3rd of the way toward the middle. In my case, I cut about 1 1/4″ in from both sides on my lunch bag. Fold the sides where you just cut, down on a 45 degree angle, so they look like a collar for the shirt. I glued my collar down at this point, but you are better off waiting until you’ve put your tie and collar buttons in place (if you use collar buttons, ie brads.)
I used a scrap of paper and drew a tie by drawing two diagonal lines that go from wide to narrow and are about 1/2″ long and then draw long diagonal lines that start narrow and go wider and are maybe 2″ long, then draw diagonal lines that are wide and meet in the center to make the bottom of the tie and are 1/2″ long. These measurements are just for guides, and it’s easier if you just draw your tie on the back of the paper you’re using and then cut it out and then trim it until you like it. You might want to make your tie longer if your bag is larger or make the tie smaller if your bag is smaller. I poked holes near the ends of my collar and put small brads through them to look like buttons and then glued the tie into the center under the collar and then glue down the collar tabs so they stay in place.
Making the bag from paper:I recommend you using a very light weight paper….very thin scrapbook paper, newspaper, a map, or gift wrap, as it becomes really hard to fold the “collar” once you’ve folded the paper twice.
I used retired Stampin’ Up 12 x 12″ paper and using two sheets, scored them both at 1/2″, 4 1/2″, and 11 1/2″ (I always turn the paper over to make the 11 1/2″ score, as I’m left handed and it’s easier to score it at 1/2″).. Use the 11 1/2″ score and put tear tape up to the score line the whole length of the paper. Then lay the other piece of paper up to the 1/2″ score line over the tear tape. I always put a little wet glue on my tear taped area so it’s easy to remove the papers if I make a mistake in laying them down.The papers should be laying so the score lines from left to right are 1/2″, 4 1/2″, and 11 1/2″. You want the two pieces of paper perfectly lined up across the bottom and top before you press them in place. Then fold the last 11 1/2″ score line over on itself and put glue on it and then take the left paper and fold it onto the right side paper, so the score lines lay on top of each other and it creates a box shape..
To make the bottom of the bag, score 2 1/2″ from the bottom. (If your paper has a directional pattern, make sure the pattern faces the right side of your score board when you’re scoring it.) Cut each corner up to the 2 1/2″ score and cut out a thin sliver on each corner up to the score. Then fold all four sides and burnish. Fold in one long side, put glue on both short ends and fold them onto the long side, then put glue on the last side, and fold it onto the short ends, making sure you rub the inside to ensure it’s well adhered to itself.
Your bag isn’t going to hold anything super heavy, but if you feel like you want it to hold more, add a layer of chipboard/cardboard in the bottom and glue it in for stability. Now that the bag is made, take the side and pinch the tops into the center so it has an indented center. Do the same to the other side. Then fill the bag…. Fold the top down 1″ and then fold it again, another 1″ and make sure you use your bone folder so your folds are as flat as possible. Add wet glue to hold the folds in place. Cut below your folds from the edges 2 1/4″ toward the center on both sides and then fold these pieces on a 45 degree angle to create the collar. You can add brads to hold the collar ends down or you can glue small buttons on the ends of the collar for decoration. Then following the instructions above on how to draw the tie. Draw and cut out your tie and glue it into the center of the collar and your bag is done.
I have the nicest friends. I have been getting gifts from Frances, who lives in Scotland, and so many lovely cards, and wanted to share them with you. My friend Sherry, sent me a huge box of goodies as well, and I’ll be showing the contents in this video.
Thanks to Sherry and Frances for such wonderful goodies…
Here are links to some of the things I show in the video.
I started with a piece of acetate that is 9″ x 4″ and score on the 9″ length at 1/2″ and 2 1/2″ and then turn the acetate around to the other end and score that end at 1/2″ and 2 1/2″. Take your time scoring acetate and really make sure the lines are deeply etched into the surface, so you can fold it.
The sand colored cardstock came in the kit, but you can use whatever similar color cardstock you’d like. I used two pieces of “sand” cardstock, one 1 ” x 5″ long and one that is 1 1/4″ x 5″ and I used a stencil that came in the kit, but you could just cut a hilly look into the tops of each of these pieces. I traced the stencil with a marker and then cut the marker lines out with scissors. You’ll score both on the 5″ length at 1/2″ and 4 1/2″ I used an ink cube that’s a little darker sand color and I used a blending brush and inked the top edge, and the score marks on either end.
My card base is 8″ x 5″ tall and scored on the 8″ length at 4″ in an ocean blue. I used patterned paper in the kit that’s an under the sea scene that is 4 x 4″.
I used Cosmic Shimmer Glitter Kiss on the school of fish I created for sparkle. Link: https://tinyurl.com/98rj95d2 To make the school, I took one larger and one smaller fish stamp from the kit and made two masks of the larger fish. Then on a white scrap of cardstock, I stamped three of the bigger fish in a row (horizontal). Then I laid the two masks over the first two fish and stamped a smaller fish above and below in between the first and second fishes, and then stamped a fish above and below the center fish, then moved the first mask to the third large fish and stamped the small fish above and below between the second and third fish, and above and below the third fish. Then I used alcohol markers to color them.
I used a retired Stampin’ Up Word Window punch link: https://tinyurl.com/et5kaakpto punch a straight line through the sea scene paper before I glued it to the card base. Save the scrap you punched out as you’ll want to glue it back into that slot later.
I cut four 7/8″ circles with a die from the kit (you can use a 1″punch). Glue two of them to each other, and take a foam square that’s small enough to slide back and forth in the slot we cut, and lay one circle under the slot, put the foam square in the center of it, and then lay the second circle over the slot. Glue the school of fish onto the top circle. Put foam strips behind the sea designed paper avoiding the area around the moving circles and lay the acetate on the bottom of the card base using tear tape under the 1/2″ scored areas, then lay the seascape on top of the acetate lining it up with the bottom edge of the card base. Glue the strip of seascape paper you cut with the punch into the slot it came out of with a little wet glue.
I used Bearly Art Glue link: https://bearly.art/ I added tear tape to the scored areas on both of my sand mounds, and glued the first mound in, lining it up with the bottom of the card and making sure the ends lay against the sea scape paper. Glue in the second sand mound by making sure it buts against the first sand mound edges, and lines up with the bottom of the acetate.
I stamped and die cut almost every sea creature that came with the kit and then used alcohol markers to color them. I cut thin strips of acetate and glued the sea creatures to the top of the acetate strip with tear tape, and put tear tape on the bottom front of each strip, so I could glue it to the back of the sand mounds. Spend time arranging these before you glue them in place, making sure they don’t cover up the moving school of fish.
Water drop beads link https://tinyurl.com/4d64scu3 choose smallest mm option. I glued threeof these across the submarine windows.
Cut two strips of black cardstock…1/4″ x 11″ and 1″ x 11″ strips. Put tear tape on the back of each strip. Use the 1″ strip and glue it to the bottom of the cardbase on the acetate, pinching the corners, and glue the 1/4″ strip along the top of the acetate. I cut a couple more 1/4″ strips and glued them to the sides of the aquarium to hide the sides and one more inside the top to make the top, back of the aquarium.
I added a sentiment from the kit and laid a strip of ribbon under it on the top portion of the card and put a sentiment inside the card and stamped a school of fish. Glued some blowfish on the top and sitting on a sand mound.
2 pieces 6 7/8″ x 6″ for top and bottom (I changed these measurements later in the video)
1 piece of 2 x 6 7/8″ for flap that is attached to the top (I changed this measurement later in the video.)
Pink cardstock sizing:
Bottom-I cut this first so I can attach it to the bottom’s cardboard and then I can adhere the sides to it easily…Cut pink paper to 8 3/4 x 8″ and then score on all four sides at 1″…then, cut out the little squares in the corners including the score lines (you’ll see them after you do your scoring,) then attach an adhesive sheet to the chipboard (cardboard, I’ll use these terms interchangeably, sorry) and then lay the chipboard for the bottom into the center of the scores.
Hinges: Cut 8 strips of 4 3/4″ x 1″ scored on the 1 ” length at 1/2″ of pink for the hinges (I sometimes call these flaps, sorry,) and fold them in half…I put tear tape on one half of each strip and attach to the outside of the side pieces of cardboard and to the inside of the front and back pieces so they will each wrap around the others to hold the box together.
Cut 2 pink, 6 x 1 1/2″ for the sides and score on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″ (These go on the inside of the bottom of your sides with 1/2 glued to the side and 1/2 loose at this point.
Cut 2 pink, 6 3/4 x 1 1/2″ for the front and back and score on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″. Take the cardboard pieces you’ve cut for the front, back and sides, and add one of these hinges to the bottom inside of each with the fold of the hinge lined up with the bottom edge of each cardboard piece, and the other half of the hinge faces inside the box and is not attached to anything at this time.
NOTE: In the video, I covered the side pieces with a piece of 6 x 6″ pink paper on the outside and wrapped the excess around the top of the cardboard, so it would look finished, but I forgot I haven’t attached it to the base yet, so will have a hinge from the bottom on the outside of the side showing…if you don’t like this look, then wait to add your 6 x 6″ pink paper to the sides of the box until after you’ve adhered the sides to the bottom of the box, and then just wrap the 6 x 6″ pink piece starting at the bottom of your sides, and you’ll hide the bottom hinges by doing this.
Adhering the bottom to the sides: Put wet glue and tear tape (if you want both) onto the side hinge (flap) of the bottom we covered earlier, and lay the side cardboard piece in place on the inside of the flap from the bottom, and hold it until it sets up. Then put glue on the hinge that’s on the bottom of the side panel, and glue it inside the box onto the bottom.
Adhering the back to the sides: Glue the hinges of the back cardboard piece to the bottom inside and glue the outside hinge to the outside of the back cardboard piece, like you did with the sides. One it’s staying in place, glue the side hinges to the outside of your back cardboard piece, and glue the hinges of the back cardboard piece to the inside of the side panels so you have a hinge on both sides of each piece of cardboard.
Adhering the front to the sides: Glue the hinges of the front cardboard piece to the bottom inside and glue the outside hinge to the outside of the front cardboard piece, like you did with the sides. One it’s staying in place, glue the side hinges to the outside of your front cardboard piece, and glue the hinges of the front cardboard piece to the inside of the side panels so you have a hinge on both sides of each piece of cardboard.
If you don’t want your bottom hinges showing on the outside of your box, now would be the time to adhere the 6 x 6″ piece of pink cardstock to the sides of the box on the outside.
You need two more pink hinges to cover the top of the front and back of the box…cut them tp 6 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ and score on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″ and glue one over the front of the box and one over the back of the box, so both cardboard tops look more professional. Make sure you have the score line on the very top of the cardboard so there’s no waffling later.
To line the inside of the box with pink cardstock you’ll need:
2 pieces 4 x 5 1/4″ pink cardstock for the sides
2 pieces of 4 x 6 1/2″ pink cardstock for the front and back of the box
1 piece of 6 x 6 1/4″ for the bottom of the box
To line the outside of the front and back of the box:
2 pieces of Graphic 45 Blossom paper cut to 6 3/4 x 4 3/4″
If you don’t fix the side issue by waiting to cover the sides until you’ve attached it to the bottom, you might want to do what I did and that was to make a 1″ x 6 3/4″ strip of matching Graphic 45 Blossom paper for each side to glue right above the hinge you can see…If you wait to glue the outer paper to the sides until it’s attached to the bottom of the box, you won’t need to do this.
Top of the Box: I had some issues with the width of my cardboard and the width of the paper I covered it with…I’ve corrected the dimensions and hope my explanation below will help you do a better job with your box.
To make the top of the box, you’ll need Graphic 45 Blossom paper that is 12″ long x 8 3/8″ wide. Lay the 2″ x 6 7/8″ piece of cardboard that you’ve lined with adhesive 2 1/4″ from the end of the underside of your 12″ long piece of paper. Then place the 6 7/8″ x 6″ piece of cardboard (with adhesive on it) about 1/8″ away from the 2″ wide cardboard and you will still have about 4″ of paper left…using your score tool, gently score around the edges of your cardboard and gently cut away the front corners of the 2″ cardboard’s paper covering leaving about a 1/8″ strip of paper, so you can wrap the paper over the corners of the cardboard without having any issues. Before wrapping the front of the paper over the cardboard, lay two magnets about 1″ from the sides and bottom of the 2″ piece of cardboard, so you’ll have one on either side. Put tear tape on the sides of the cardboard and the edges of the sides of your paper and pull the sides so you can lay them over the cardboard in an even pattern. You should wrap the sides all the way to the end of the 12″ length of paper. Add adhesive to the underside of the Blossom paper that doesn’t have any cardboard on it, as this will be what adheres your lid to your box. Then add more adhesive under the 6 7/8″ x 6″ piece of cardboard and lay a piece of Blossom paper over it that is roughly 5″ x 6″ (check your exposed cardboard to make sure that my measurement will cover all of the cardboard that is still exposed.)
Lay the top of the box over your box and add wet glue to the back piece of cardstock that has no cardboard, first taking the backing off of your tear tape…Make sure you place the top flat on your box, and put the 2″ flap over the front of the box, and then press the paper to the back of the box until it is well adhered. Now take the other half of your magnets and attach them to the magnets that are under the 2″ strip. Once they are stuck to each other, add a Glue Dot or tear tape to the back of the magnet and close the lid of the box over the magnets and rub. Open the lid and rub the magnets again to ensure they will stay attached to the side of the box.
I will make another video showing you my system for storing the papers inside the box…Hope you enjoyed this video and didn’t have a difficult time following my instructions..
I wanted to use a 12 x 12″ paper pad I bought from Michaels a long time ago in their bargain bin. The paper pad I’m using is from DCWV and is called Royal Gypsy. It’s no longer available and I don’t recommend this paper as it cracks when you bend it and I’m making a bunch of these gift bags to use up the pad…
For each bag, you’ll need:
two pieces of 10 x 12″ patterned papers (they don’t have to match, as one is for the front and one for the back.
two pieces of 4 x 11″ for the sides (I used regular card stock for this and
one piece of 4″ x 10″ for the bottom
Front and Back: the 10 x 12″ paper–Score on the 12″ length…. If your paper has a pattern that is directional, make sure the direction faces the left side of your score board and score both of your papers at 1 1/2″… One of your 10 x 12″ papers also needs to be scored on the opposite end from the 1 1/2″ score at 3″ so it will fold flat. This is the back of your bag. The front of your bag only has the 1 1/2″ score at the top. S
Sides: I used a thicker black cardstock and I recommend you use a lighter weight cardstock, 65 lb to 90 lb would work best. Score both side pieces on the 4″ length at 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ on the 11″ length, score at 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ on both pieces (if you paper has a directional pattern, make sure it faces to the right when you do these scores) Then turn the paper back to the 4″ length with the 3 1/2″ score close to the bottom…score at 2″ down to the 3 1/2″ score. Do this to both sides. Take the paper out of the score board but hold onto your stylus and take a ruler and lay the ruler at the base of the 2″ score you just made down to the left side of the 1/2″ score on a diagonal using the ruler so the rectangular box, then do the same from the 2″ score to the right side of the 1/2″ score.
Bottom piece: score on the 4″ length at 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ or you can score at 1/2″ and then turn the paper around and score again at 1/2″…this system works better for me as I’m left handed. Your results will be the same with either method.
I used a corner rounder (I prefer the Kadomaru Pro corner rounder, but got this rounder free and wanted to try it.) I rounded the two top corners of the front and back pieces closest to the 1 1/2″ score.
Take the two side pieces and cut out the bottom two corners to their scores and then angle out a notch on the bottom center piece on either side and the 1/2″ scores, but a small notch out of the top and bottom on both sides. The end result will make it so you don’t have any paper showing once you glue this bag together. The scissors I used are from Tonic, here’s a link on ebay…they’re really inexpensive. https://tinyurl.com/54sfcy3n
Add tear tape to the bottom piece on the outside of the scores.
Side pieces,–add tear tape to the outside of the scores and on the bottom score from the score to the bottom (same side as you put tear tape on the other scores.
Front and Back–add tear tape to the back of the 1 1/2″ score near the top of the paper so this lays flat, but don’t take the backing off yet.
To put the bag together: Start with the bottom piece and the back and take the tear tape off the bottom and add wet glue so you can move the paper if you need to. Line up the bottom edge of the back of your bag to the bottom of the scored area and make sure it’s straight and that you can’t see the black paper once the bag is standing up. Make sure the front and bottom pieces are lined up so the edges are straight. Then use your bone folder to ensure it’s glued together…Do the exact same steps to adhere the front of the bag.
To adhere one side, take off the backing of the tear tape and add wet glue to both sides and bottom of the side and pinch in the side scores and pull up the bottom score and then lay the bottom score down so it’s straight with the bottom of the bag, then pull the front (or back) up and make sure the side and front line up and then do the same with the back, adhering it to the side. Do the same steps to the back and your bag is made. You need to rub all glued areas with your bone folder.
To make the strip to glue onto the 1 1/2″ white area, cut leftover paper down to 10 1/4″ by 1″ and you’ll need two of these. For the handles, I used 9″ long strips of ribbon. I made a mark 2″ from the edge of the white strip of paper on the left and right edge. I added tear tape on the 2″ mark and closer to the center of the bag, and laid one end of the ribbon on the tear tape (making sure the ribbon doesn’t go to the bottom of the 1 1/2″ strip. Loop the ribbon around to the other mark and glue it in place. Once one side of the bag is finished with ribbon, flip over the bag and use the first ribbon as a guide for where to put your tear tape.