To make a shirt and tie bag, use a bag that is longer and thinner, like a lunch bag. Fill the bag with the gift before making the shirt.…and leave about 2 1/2″ from the top empty, so you can fold it down.
Once the bag is filled, fold the top over with about a 1″ fold, and then fold it again so you have two folds. Then put some glue under your folds so they stay in place. Then cut under the fold on either side about 1/3rd of the way toward the middle. In my case, I cut about 1 1/4″ in from both sides on my lunch bag. Fold the sides where you just cut, down on a 45 degree angle, so they look like a collar for the shirt. I glued my collar down at this point, but you are better off waiting until you’ve put your tie and collar buttons in place (if you use collar buttons, ie brads.)
I used a scrap of paper and drew a tie by drawing two diagonal lines that go from wide to narrow and are about 1/2″ long and then draw long diagonal lines that start narrow and go wider and are maybe 2″ long, then draw diagonal lines that are wide and meet in the center to make the bottom of the tie and are 1/2″ long. These measurements are just for guides, and it’s easier if you just draw your tie on the back of the paper you’re using and then cut it out and then trim it until you like it. You might want to make your tie longer if your bag is larger or make the tie smaller if your bag is smaller. I poked holes near the ends of my collar and put small brads through them to look like buttons and then glued the tie into the center under the collar and then glue down the collar tabs so they stay in place.
Making the bag from paper:I recommend you using a very light weight paper….very thin scrapbook paper, newspaper, a map, or gift wrap, as it becomes really hard to fold the “collar” once you’ve folded the paper twice.
I used retired Stampin’ Up 12 x 12″ paper and using two sheets, scored them both at 1/2″, 4 1/2″, and 11 1/2″ (I always turn the paper over to make the 11 1/2″ score, as I’m left handed and it’s easier to score it at 1/2″).. Use the 11 1/2″ score and put tear tape up to the score line the whole length of the paper. Then lay the other piece of paper up to the 1/2″ score line over the tear tape. I always put a little wet glue on my tear taped area so it’s easy to remove the papers if I make a mistake in laying them down.The papers should be laying so the score lines from left to right are 1/2″, 4 1/2″, and 11 1/2″. You want the two pieces of paper perfectly lined up across the bottom and top before you press them in place. Then fold the last 11 1/2″ score line over on itself and put glue on it and then take the left paper and fold it onto the right side paper, so the score lines lay on top of each other and it creates a box shape..
To make the bottom of the bag, score 2 1/2″ from the bottom. (If your paper has a directional pattern, make sure the pattern faces the right side of your score board when you’re scoring it.) Cut each corner up to the 2 1/2″ score and cut out a thin sliver on each corner up to the score. Then fold all four sides and burnish. Fold in one long side, put glue on both short ends and fold them onto the long side, then put glue on the last side, and fold it onto the short ends, making sure you rub the inside to ensure it’s well adhered to itself.
Your bag isn’t going to hold anything super heavy, but if you feel like you want it to hold more, add a layer of chipboard/cardboard in the bottom and glue it in for stability. Now that the bag is made, take the side and pinch the tops into the center so it has an indented center. Do the same to the other side. Then fill the bag…. Fold the top down 1″ and then fold it again, another 1″ and make sure you use your bone folder so your folds are as flat as possible. Add wet glue to hold the folds in place. Cut below your folds from the edges 2 1/4″ toward the center on both sides and then fold these pieces on a 45 degree angle to create the collar. You can add brads to hold the collar ends down or you can glue small buttons on the ends of the collar for decoration. Then following the instructions above on how to draw the tie. Draw and cut out your tie and glue it into the center of the collar and your bag is done.
I have the nicest friends. I have been getting gifts from Frances, who lives in Scotland, and so many lovely cards, and wanted to share them with you. My friend Sherry, sent me a huge box of goodies as well, and I’ll be showing the contents in this video.
Thanks to Sherry and Frances for such wonderful goodies…
Here are links to some of the things I show in the video.
I started with a piece of acetate that is 9″ x 4″ and score on the 9″ length at 1/2″ and 2 1/2″ and then turn the acetate around to the other end and score that end at 1/2″ and 2 1/2″. Take your time scoring acetate and really make sure the lines are deeply etched into the surface, so you can fold it.
The sand colored cardstock came in the kit, but you can use whatever similar color cardstock you’d like. I used two pieces of “sand” cardstock, one 1 ” x 5″ long and one that is 1 1/4″ x 5″ and I used a stencil that came in the kit, but you could just cut a hilly look into the tops of each of these pieces. I traced the stencil with a marker and then cut the marker lines out with scissors. You’ll score both on the 5″ length at 1/2″ and 4 1/2″ I used an ink cube that’s a little darker sand color and I used a blending brush and inked the top edge, and the score marks on either end.
My card base is 8″ x 5″ tall and scored on the 8″ length at 4″ in an ocean blue. I used patterned paper in the kit that’s an under the sea scene that is 4 x 4″.
I used Cosmic Shimmer Glitter Kiss on the school of fish I created for sparkle. Link: https://tinyurl.com/98rj95d2 To make the school, I took one larger and one smaller fish stamp from the kit and made two masks of the larger fish. Then on a white scrap of cardstock, I stamped three of the bigger fish in a row (horizontal). Then I laid the two masks over the first two fish and stamped a smaller fish above and below in between the first and second fishes, and then stamped a fish above and below the center fish, then moved the first mask to the third large fish and stamped the small fish above and below between the second and third fish, and above and below the third fish. Then I used alcohol markers to color them.
I used a retired Stampin’ Up Word Window punch link: https://tinyurl.com/et5kaakpto punch a straight line through the sea scene paper before I glued it to the card base. Save the scrap you punched out as you’ll want to glue it back into that slot later.
I cut four 7/8″ circles with a die from the kit (you can use a 1″punch). Glue two of them to each other, and take a foam square that’s small enough to slide back and forth in the slot we cut, and lay one circle under the slot, put the foam square in the center of it, and then lay the second circle over the slot. Glue the school of fish onto the top circle. Put foam strips behind the sea designed paper avoiding the area around the moving circles and lay the acetate on the bottom of the card base using tear tape under the 1/2″ scored areas, then lay the seascape on top of the acetate lining it up with the bottom edge of the card base. Glue the strip of seascape paper you cut with the punch into the slot it came out of with a little wet glue.
I used Bearly Art Glue link: https://bearly.art/ I added tear tape to the scored areas on both of my sand mounds, and glued the first mound in, lining it up with the bottom of the card and making sure the ends lay against the sea scape paper. Glue in the second sand mound by making sure it buts against the first sand mound edges, and lines up with the bottom of the acetate.
I stamped and die cut almost every sea creature that came with the kit and then used alcohol markers to color them. I cut thin strips of acetate and glued the sea creatures to the top of the acetate strip with tear tape, and put tear tape on the bottom front of each strip, so I could glue it to the back of the sand mounds. Spend time arranging these before you glue them in place, making sure they don’t cover up the moving school of fish.
Water drop beads link https://tinyurl.com/4d64scu3 choose smallest mm option. I glued threeof these across the submarine windows.
Cut two strips of black cardstock…1/4″ x 11″ and 1″ x 11″ strips. Put tear tape on the back of each strip. Use the 1″ strip and glue it to the bottom of the cardbase on the acetate, pinching the corners, and glue the 1/4″ strip along the top of the acetate. I cut a couple more 1/4″ strips and glued them to the sides of the aquarium to hide the sides and one more inside the top to make the top, back of the aquarium.
I added a sentiment from the kit and laid a strip of ribbon under it on the top portion of the card and put a sentiment inside the card and stamped a school of fish. Glued some blowfish on the top and sitting on a sand mound.
2 pieces 6 7/8″ x 6″ for top and bottom (I changed these measurements later in the video)
1 piece of 2 x 6 7/8″ for flap that is attached to the top (I changed this measurement later in the video.)
Pink cardstock sizing:
Bottom-I cut this first so I can attach it to the bottom’s cardboard and then I can adhere the sides to it easily…Cut pink paper to 8 3/4 x 8″ and then score on all four sides at 1″…then, cut out the little squares in the corners including the score lines (you’ll see them after you do your scoring,) then attach an adhesive sheet to the chipboard (cardboard, I’ll use these terms interchangeably, sorry) and then lay the chipboard for the bottom into the center of the scores.
Hinges: Cut 8 strips of 4 3/4″ x 1″ scored on the 1 ” length at 1/2″ of pink for the hinges (I sometimes call these flaps, sorry,) and fold them in half…I put tear tape on one half of each strip and attach to the outside of the side pieces of cardboard and to the inside of the front and back pieces so they will each wrap around the others to hold the box together.
Cut 2 pink, 6 x 1 1/2″ for the sides and score on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″ (These go on the inside of the bottom of your sides with 1/2 glued to the side and 1/2 loose at this point.
Cut 2 pink, 6 3/4 x 1 1/2″ for the front and back and score on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″. Take the cardboard pieces you’ve cut for the front, back and sides, and add one of these hinges to the bottom inside of each with the fold of the hinge lined up with the bottom edge of each cardboard piece, and the other half of the hinge faces inside the box and is not attached to anything at this time.
NOTE: In the video, I covered the side pieces with a piece of 6 x 6″ pink paper on the outside and wrapped the excess around the top of the cardboard, so it would look finished, but I forgot I haven’t attached it to the base yet, so will have a hinge from the bottom on the outside of the side showing…if you don’t like this look, then wait to add your 6 x 6″ pink paper to the sides of the box until after you’ve adhered the sides to the bottom of the box, and then just wrap the 6 x 6″ pink piece starting at the bottom of your sides, and you’ll hide the bottom hinges by doing this.
Adhering the bottom to the sides: Put wet glue and tear tape (if you want both) onto the side hinge (flap) of the bottom we covered earlier, and lay the side cardboard piece in place on the inside of the flap from the bottom, and hold it until it sets up. Then put glue on the hinge that’s on the bottom of the side panel, and glue it inside the box onto the bottom.
Adhering the back to the sides: Glue the hinges of the back cardboard piece to the bottom inside and glue the outside hinge to the outside of the back cardboard piece, like you did with the sides. One it’s staying in place, glue the side hinges to the outside of your back cardboard piece, and glue the hinges of the back cardboard piece to the inside of the side panels so you have a hinge on both sides of each piece of cardboard.
Adhering the front to the sides: Glue the hinges of the front cardboard piece to the bottom inside and glue the outside hinge to the outside of the front cardboard piece, like you did with the sides. One it’s staying in place, glue the side hinges to the outside of your front cardboard piece, and glue the hinges of the front cardboard piece to the inside of the side panels so you have a hinge on both sides of each piece of cardboard.
If you don’t want your bottom hinges showing on the outside of your box, now would be the time to adhere the 6 x 6″ piece of pink cardstock to the sides of the box on the outside.
You need two more pink hinges to cover the top of the front and back of the box…cut them tp 6 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ and score on the 1 1/2″ length at 3/4″ and glue one over the front of the box and one over the back of the box, so both cardboard tops look more professional. Make sure you have the score line on the very top of the cardboard so there’s no waffling later.
To line the inside of the box with pink cardstock you’ll need:
2 pieces 4 x 5 1/4″ pink cardstock for the sides
2 pieces of 4 x 6 1/2″ pink cardstock for the front and back of the box
1 piece of 6 x 6 1/4″ for the bottom of the box
To line the outside of the front and back of the box:
2 pieces of Graphic 45 Blossom paper cut to 6 3/4 x 4 3/4″
If you don’t fix the side issue by waiting to cover the sides until you’ve attached it to the bottom, you might want to do what I did and that was to make a 1″ x 6 3/4″ strip of matching Graphic 45 Blossom paper for each side to glue right above the hinge you can see…If you wait to glue the outer paper to the sides until it’s attached to the bottom of the box, you won’t need to do this.
Top of the Box: I had some issues with the width of my cardboard and the width of the paper I covered it with…I’ve corrected the dimensions and hope my explanation below will help you do a better job with your box.
To make the top of the box, you’ll need Graphic 45 Blossom paper that is 12″ long x 8 3/8″ wide. Lay the 2″ x 6 7/8″ piece of cardboard that you’ve lined with adhesive 2 1/4″ from the end of the underside of your 12″ long piece of paper. Then place the 6 7/8″ x 6″ piece of cardboard (with adhesive on it) about 1/8″ away from the 2″ wide cardboard and you will still have about 4″ of paper left…using your score tool, gently score around the edges of your cardboard and gently cut away the front corners of the 2″ cardboard’s paper covering leaving about a 1/8″ strip of paper, so you can wrap the paper over the corners of the cardboard without having any issues. Before wrapping the front of the paper over the cardboard, lay two magnets about 1″ from the sides and bottom of the 2″ piece of cardboard, so you’ll have one on either side. Put tear tape on the sides of the cardboard and the edges of the sides of your paper and pull the sides so you can lay them over the cardboard in an even pattern. You should wrap the sides all the way to the end of the 12″ length of paper. Add adhesive to the underside of the Blossom paper that doesn’t have any cardboard on it, as this will be what adheres your lid to your box. Then add more adhesive under the 6 7/8″ x 6″ piece of cardboard and lay a piece of Blossom paper over it that is roughly 5″ x 6″ (check your exposed cardboard to make sure that my measurement will cover all of the cardboard that is still exposed.)
Lay the top of the box over your box and add wet glue to the back piece of cardstock that has no cardboard, first taking the backing off of your tear tape…Make sure you place the top flat on your box, and put the 2″ flap over the front of the box, and then press the paper to the back of the box until it is well adhered. Now take the other half of your magnets and attach them to the magnets that are under the 2″ strip. Once they are stuck to each other, add a Glue Dot or tear tape to the back of the magnet and close the lid of the box over the magnets and rub. Open the lid and rub the magnets again to ensure they will stay attached to the side of the box.
I will make another video showing you my system for storing the papers inside the box…Hope you enjoyed this video and didn’t have a difficult time following my instructions..
I wanted to use a 12 x 12″ paper pad I bought from Michaels a long time ago in their bargain bin. The paper pad I’m using is from DCWV and is called Royal Gypsy. It’s no longer available and I don’t recommend this paper as it cracks when you bend it and I’m making a bunch of these gift bags to use up the pad…
For each bag, you’ll need:
two pieces of 10 x 12″ patterned papers (they don’t have to match, as one is for the front and one for the back.
two pieces of 4 x 11″ for the sides (I used regular card stock for this and
one piece of 4″ x 10″ for the bottom
Front and Back: the 10 x 12″ paper–Score on the 12″ length…. If your paper has a pattern that is directional, make sure the direction faces the left side of your score board and score both of your papers at 1 1/2″… One of your 10 x 12″ papers also needs to be scored on the opposite end from the 1 1/2″ score at 3″ so it will fold flat. This is the back of your bag. The front of your bag only has the 1 1/2″ score at the top. S
Sides: I used a thicker black cardstock and I recommend you use a lighter weight cardstock, 65 lb to 90 lb would work best. Score both side pieces on the 4″ length at 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ on the 11″ length, score at 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ on both pieces (if you paper has a directional pattern, make sure it faces to the right when you do these scores) Then turn the paper back to the 4″ length with the 3 1/2″ score close to the bottom…score at 2″ down to the 3 1/2″ score. Do this to both sides. Take the paper out of the score board but hold onto your stylus and take a ruler and lay the ruler at the base of the 2″ score you just made down to the left side of the 1/2″ score on a diagonal using the ruler so the rectangular box, then do the same from the 2″ score to the right side of the 1/2″ score.
Bottom piece: score on the 4″ length at 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ or you can score at 1/2″ and then turn the paper around and score again at 1/2″…this system works better for me as I’m left handed. Your results will be the same with either method.
I used a corner rounder (I prefer the Kadomaru Pro corner rounder, but got this rounder free and wanted to try it.) I rounded the two top corners of the front and back pieces closest to the 1 1/2″ score.
Take the two side pieces and cut out the bottom two corners to their scores and then angle out a notch on the bottom center piece on either side and the 1/2″ scores, but a small notch out of the top and bottom on both sides. The end result will make it so you don’t have any paper showing once you glue this bag together. The scissors I used are from Tonic, here’s a link on ebay…they’re really inexpensive. https://tinyurl.com/54sfcy3n
Add tear tape to the bottom piece on the outside of the scores.
Side pieces,–add tear tape to the outside of the scores and on the bottom score from the score to the bottom (same side as you put tear tape on the other scores.
Front and Back–add tear tape to the back of the 1 1/2″ score near the top of the paper so this lays flat, but don’t take the backing off yet.
To put the bag together: Start with the bottom piece and the back and take the tear tape off the bottom and add wet glue so you can move the paper if you need to. Line up the bottom edge of the back of your bag to the bottom of the scored area and make sure it’s straight and that you can’t see the black paper once the bag is standing up. Make sure the front and bottom pieces are lined up so the edges are straight. Then use your bone folder to ensure it’s glued together…Do the exact same steps to adhere the front of the bag.
To adhere one side, take off the backing of the tear tape and add wet glue to both sides and bottom of the side and pinch in the side scores and pull up the bottom score and then lay the bottom score down so it’s straight with the bottom of the bag, then pull the front (or back) up and make sure the side and front line up and then do the same with the back, adhering it to the side. Do the same steps to the back and your bag is made. You need to rub all glued areas with your bone folder.
To make the strip to glue onto the 1 1/2″ white area, cut leftover paper down to 10 1/4″ by 1″ and you’ll need two of these. For the handles, I used 9″ long strips of ribbon. I made a mark 2″ from the edge of the white strip of paper on the left and right edge. I added tear tape on the 2″ mark and closer to the center of the bag, and laid one end of the ribbon on the tear tape (making sure the ribbon doesn’t go to the bottom of the 1 1/2″ strip. Loop the ribbon around to the other mark and glue it in place. Once one side of the bag is finished with ribbon, flip over the bag and use the first ribbon as a guide for where to put your tear tape.
I love making purses and gift bags and promised I’d be making more of them. Here’s one that only requires a 12 x 12″ piece of patterned paper and some decorations.
I used Vintage Lace Edging die from Sizzix Decorative strip #657413 that’s retired. Here’s a few I found on ebay link: https://tinyurl.com/4paej65m
I used old Stampin’ Up retired designer series paper.. One piece of 12 x 12″ paper scored on one 12″ side at 2 1/2″ and 9 1/2″ and turn one turn and score at 5″ and 7″. Fold and burnish the scores.
With the 5″ and 7″ scores lying horizontally, pinch your finger where the scores meet and push the paper in and make a diagonal fold, then do the same to the scores below it…do the same to the two scores on the other end of the paper. Put tear tape on the four corners up to the scores and then fold the sides onto the tear tape.
To decorate the bag, I put a strip of orange paper that is 7″ long and 2″ wide and glued one of the white strips I cut from the vintage lace edging die to it. After I glued the two pieces together, I trimmed the orange paper down about 1/8″. You’ll need two of these pieces.
I made a mark with a pencil (on the top) 1″ from either end on the inside of the bag and adhered a 13″ length of ribbon onto the bag on the 1″ mark with the ribbon inside the mark (closer to the center of the bag.)
I lined the bag with a white strip of paper on the inside of the bag that’s 7″ long by 1 1/2″ tall to hide the ends of the ribbon and to make sure the ribbon doesn’t pull off of the bag. I used Bearly Art Glue for gluing the paper and ribbon in place.
I used round self-adhesive velcro dots from the Dollar Tree and adhered one to the inside center of the bag near the top. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find them on their website, but you should be able to find them in the craft section of your Dollar Tree.
The bag is 5″ tall, 7″ wide and 2″ across the bottom.
I wanted to make a herringbone card and added mica powder.
I started with a card base that is 8 1/2″ tall by 5 1/2″ wide and scored on the 8 1/2″ length at 4 1/4″ to make an A2 sized card. I added a double sided adhesive sheet over the front of my card base, and then removed the backing sheet. It leaves a very sticky adhesive behind.
Then cut a bunch of narrow strips of patterned paper from 1/8″ wide to 1/4″ wide and in whatever lengths you have available.
To make a herringbone, use the same patterned strips to create four segments on the card front. Then choose one section and start by putting a strip with the 1/4″ wide end touching the strip that you laid first to create one of the four segments, and your next strip, the short end with butt against the strip you just laid, then butt the next short end of a strip against the strip you just laid and so on. Then once you’ve filled in that segment, go to the next. I left a small gap between the long edge of each strip and using a makeup foam brush, added mica powder to those gaps. You can use glitter to fill the gaps as well.
Thanks to my friends for sending such lovely cards my way.
I saw Sam Calcott make an open wreath card on Mixed Up Crafts and thought it was such a simple, but unforgettable card, that I needed to make one for my girlfriend’s birthday.
I started with a piece of cardstock that measures 5 x 7″ and laid a piece of patterned paper that is 4 3/4″ by 6 3/4″ and glued them together with Bearly Art Glue/ I put the papers in the scoreboard on the 7″ length and scored it at 3 1/2″
I used the second and fourth largest oval dies in the set I own, and cut the center out of the folded card base with the smaller of the two dies and made sure it cut through the front and back of our folded base. In the spots it didn’t cut through on the back layer, I used scissors to cut it.
I took the original two dies I chose so I’d have a thick frame and cut them out of the same cardstock color as my card base by lining them up so they are the same width apart from each other, then I die cut the cardstock. You’ll need to cut these twice as you need two ovals. I used the center scrap from one of the ovals for the sentiment. I used old rub on sentiments from Stampin’ Up and punched out the sentiment with an old Stampin Up Decorative Label punch. I put Bearly Art Glue on half of one of the oval frames I die cut, and adhered it to the front of the card base making sure you can’t see the card outline. I laid a thin strip of acetate half way down the oval and adhered it to both sides of the oval with tear tape, as wet glue won’t hold acetate. Then I added wet glue around the other oval and adhered it to the back of the card. I laid the punched sentiment onto the acetate using tear tape to adhere it in place. I punched another piece of the same pink cardstock to adhere to the back of the acetate and added butterflies to the back of the card as well.
I bought two packs of butterflies from Dollar Tree. Took the fronts of the butterflies off their backing and used some of the backings by themselves on the card and used the fronts to hide the paper on the oval. I used almost all of the butterflies I had.
I used a wax seal from Craspire.com to seal the envelope…I colored the flower with a silver marker and used a black envelope that matched the card. The wax seal matched the card and I made the color by combining two different wax colors to come up with one that worked perfectly…
I wanted to make shadow box cards with their dies on camera. I chose the bumblebee set to make my card. The card base is two sheets of 6 1/4″ wide by 5 1/2″ tall scoring both on the 6 1/4″ length at 1/2″ and 1″ on both ends. Then fold the 1″ fold up and the 1/2″ fold down. The two papers will face each other to be glued together. I used oval dies to cut the center out of the front of the black paper and then cut another piece of yellow cardstock to 5 1/4″ tall by 4″ wide and laid it behind the paper with the oval cut out of it, and used one sized smaller die and cut the center out of that layer then glued it into the back of the black paper. It creates a frame.
I cut the dies with Bristol paper and then used alcohol markers from Dick Blick as well as Touch 5 markers to color the bee images. I used Ranger Black Enamel Accents link: https://rangerink.com/products/ranger-enamel-accents to cover the antennae and feet so they are shiny and a little dimensional. I used a Nuvo Glue Pen to adhere the stem to the daffodil she holds.
After gluing the bee together, I added another layer of wings using foam squares to attach the two sets together so it looks like she’s flapping them. I attached a couple thin strips of acetate with tear tape to the back of the bumblebee that are 6″ long and 1/4″ wide. I glued one behind her head and one behind the lower portion of her wings. Make sure the fold on the back of the card is at 90 degrees and add tear tape between the two score lines and lay the acetate with the bumblebee in the center of the card, and before gluing the top cardstock in place, make sure she’s centered. Then glue the top piece on (with the frame.)
I’m giving some of the dies away and all you need to do to enter is to write a comment below this video that says either, “I’d like to win the adult dies” or “I’d like to win the child dies.” You need to put the comment on the screen before May 8th at midnight and you need to be in the USA to win. I win contact the winners by responding to your comment and if I don’t hear back from you by May 11th, I’ll choose a new winner. The adult dies are the man with a beer and Santa drinking lemonade. The child dies are the astronaut and the alien and the boy firefighter with a dog. Thanks to the nice people at DIYArtBin for letting me do this giveaway.
2 pieces of 12 x 8″ pieces of cardstock for the inside of the purse–I don’t recommend heavy weight card stock as it needs to bend in the middle.
2 pieces of 8 x 8″ patterned cardstock for the outside of the purse
1 piece 12 x 2 1/4″ patterned paper for the handle
1 piece of 8 x 6″ patterned paper for under the lid
1 piece of 5 3/4 x4″ pattern paper for the lid
Cardboard pieces (I used the back of a paper pad and not heavy weight cardboard)
2 pieces 5 1/8″ x 6: for surround
1 piece of 3 x 6 for surround
1 piece of 2 x 6 for lid
1 piece of 1 x 6 for lid
4 magnets that are 1/2″ by 1mm
4 bronze brads
a decoration for the front of the bag…I found metal embellishments from Tim Holtz Ideaology Line (butterflies) link: https://tinyurl.com/43d7yw8b and Michael’s Recollections metal embellishments that are no longer available, but I did find some from Recollections that would also work…here’s the link: https://tinyurl.com/y3thty8a
You’ll also need:
Stick it or any double sided adhesive full sheets to back all of the cardboard
wet glue, I used Beacon 3 in 1 glue
both of the 12 x 8″ pieces….on the 12″ length, score at 3″ and 9″ and then on the 8″ length, score at 3″
2 1/4″ x 12″ strip, on the 2 1/4″ length score at 3/4″ and 1 1/2″ and on the 12″ length, score at 1 1/2″ and 3″ and 9″ and 10 1/2″ (or for the 9 and 10 1/2″ if you just flip the paper around from the first 1 1/2″ and 3″ scores to the other end, you can score again on the 1 1/2″ and 3″ marks.)
After scoring the two pieces of 12 x 8″ papers, take one and turning the paper so your single 3″ score is running horizontally near the bottom of the paper, you should have two squares on either end and a rectangle in the center at the bottom. You want to cut out both of the squares on the ends leaving only the rectangle at the bottom.
On the second 12 x 8″ paper, holding it the same as the first 12 x 8″ paper, with the single 3″ score near the bottom, cut the 3″ score line from the top of the squares on either end, and then cut a small wedge out of the squares both top and bottom. You’ll have a long rectangle above the wedge you cut out, and you’ll want to cut the long rectangle in half so it’s half as wide..don’t cut away the length, only the width. Do this to both ends.
My cardstock had a white core, so I took a finger dauber with brown ink to cover up every edge that showed white. I recommend you do this to your purse if you have a white core in your paper.
To make the inside of the purse: Fold and burnish the scores on the two 12 x 8″ papers. Then lay the papers so the places you made your cuts face each other and the one with only a rectangle left behind, put glue on the rectangle and lay the other piece directly on top of it with the rectangles perfectly lined up so the score lines are straight, then fold in the little center notched flap and the longer one you cut in half and put glue behind them, stand the long cut piece up, lay the center flap onto the back of it, and then pull the other paper’s flap up, and glue it to the back, making sure they are all at 90 degree angles and the bottoms are all straight. If there’s a little extra paper at the top when you’re done, you can trim that off. Do the same to the other side to create a box, and make sure you rub the inside with a bone folder or ruler to make sure all papers are well adhered.
To make the surround: take the two pieces of 5 1/8 x 6″ and 3 x 6″ cardboard and 2 pieces of patterned cardstock that are 8 x 8…lay the two pieces of cardstock so they overlap just a little, put tear tape on the end, and attach them. NOTE: If your papers’ pattern has a direction, make the papers so the patterns face away from each other as when you wrap them around the purse, then they’ll both face the right direction.) Lay the two attached papers with the pattern you want (if it’s double sided cardstock) face down, and lay one piece of 5 1/8″ x 6″ cardboard about an inch from one end and leaving a 1/8″ gap, lay the 3 x 6″ cardboard and leaving another 1/8″ gap, lay the other 5 1/8″ x 6″ cardboard. You should have lined all of them with double sided adhesive and they should now be attached to the cardstock. Then cut a notch out of the four corners of the cardstock, so that when you wrap the paper around the cardboard, the corners aren’t bulky. Put tear tape on the edges of the cardstock and remove the backing. I score around the cardboard so the paper folds onto it easier, and then I start folding the paper toward the cardboard…then fold it onto the cardboard as tightly as possible, then use the bone folder to make sure all edges are well adhered. Bring the inside box you made back, add tear tape to the center piece of cardboard covered with paper, and lay the box on top of it, making sure it is centered from side to side. Then add wet glue to the inside of the cardboard sides pull them up so they are laid onto the inside box, and then rub the inside of the box to make sure the sides are well adhered to the glue.
Take the pieces of cardstock you have left and the two pieces of cardboard left.
Lay the 8″ x 6″ piece of cardstock pattern side you’ll be using facing down. Lay it so the
8″ side is facing you and put your 2″ x 6″ cardboard (already lined with double sided adhesive) so the adhesive faces down, about 1″ from the bottom of the cardstock, then with about a 1/8″ gap, lay the 1″ x 6″ cardboard down behind the first piece. Then cut notches out of the cardstock corners on the corners in front of the 2 x 6″ cardboard piece, put tear tape on the front and both sides of the cardboard pieces, all the way to the end of the cardstock. Then score around the cardboard and begin the process of making the paper wrap up and around the three sides of the cardboard, leaving the back side untouched. Once all are adhered, rub them with your bone folder to ensure they’re well adhered.
Before you do anything else, you need to attach the handle. Take the 12 x 2 1/4″ piece of cardstock and fold the two long sides into the middle and glue them both down, so you have one 3/4″ wide, 12″ long strip. Once it’s glued together, start rubbing your hand over it to start it to curl on itself. Or rub it on the edge of the desk to start it curling. Then on the 1 1/2″ score on either end, fold them under and the 3″ score on either end, the paper between these two scores is your curled handle. You will want to add two brads to both ends of the handle between the 1 1/2″ and 3″ scores. I used a Crop A Dile Big Bite to punch holes. The brads are decorational and not used to hold anything down. You’ll need your hot glue gun to adhere the handle. Take one end of the handle on the 1 x 6″ cardboard strip on the lid and centering the handle on the 1″ cardboard, wrap the paper under the cardboard strip all the way to the first 1 1/2″ score and hot glue this under the cardboard, then hot glue from the 1 1/2″ score to the 3″ score onto the top of the 1″ cardboard piece and do the same on the other end of the handle onto the other end of the 1″ cardboard piece on the lid.
Next, take the 5 3/4″ x 4″ piece of cardstock leftover and position it over the two pieces of cardboard that are exposed and glue it in place, making sure to get this as flat as possible over the handle that’s now under the lid..
The back part of the 8 x 6″ cardstock should not have any cardboard or additional paper backing it at this point…You’ll want to add tear tape to this section as this is what will attach the lid to the back of your purse. Pull the sides of the box in, so the purse looks pinched, then lay the lid over it and lining up so everything is straight, attach the back of the lid to the back of the purse and rub with your bone folder to make sure it’s adhered well.
To decorate the purse, hot glue whatever embellishment to the front center of the purse, and holding the lid where you want it, lay your magnets under the lid about 1″ from the left and right edges of the lid and glue dot them in place. Then take the other half of both magnets and adhere them to their magnet mate, and add a glue dot to the back of them, then close the lid and rub it so the glue dots hold the magnets to the purse. I wanted to hide the magnets, but forgot to put them under the cardboard when I first laid the cardboard onto the cardstock. If you do this, your magnets will probably still show under the lid, as it might be really hard to figure out where they go, in relation to the magnets on the body of the purse. I’d love it if someone could show me an easy way to do this..